Tadashi Naruse 成瀨正
挑戰麵包的無限可能:日本人氣名店TRAIN BLEU的極致風味47款
挑戰麵包的無限可能:日本人氣名店TRAIN BLEU的極致風味47款
Tadashi Naruse
成瀨正
Published 2011
This book has a different kind of energy.
It is not quiet in the same way as some Japanese bread books. It feels more direct, more ambitious — like a baker asking how far bread can go when flavour, texture, layering and technique are all pushed with seriousness.
TRAIN BLEU is a well-known bakery from Hida Takayama, and this book gathers 47 recipes from the shop, ranging from rustic baguettes and grain breads to croissants, Danish pastries, cakes and other creative breads.
What interests me is the range.
There are breads that look simple, but depend heavily on fermentation, chew and crust.
There are laminated products where precision becomes flavour.
There are also more creative items where the personality of the bakery begins to show.
For me, this book is not only about learning individual formulas. It is about seeing how a bakery builds its reputation through consistency, detail and a very clear standard.
Tadashi Naruse’s background gives the book even more weight. He is the chef-owner of TRAIN BLEU, the fourth generation of a bread-making family from Takayama. In 2005, he represented Japan as team captain at the Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie, where the Japanese team achieved third place overall.
That kind of journey speaks to me.
A bakery can be in a small town and still carry a world-class standard.
A product can look humble, but the work behind it can be extremely deep.
A baker does not need to chase noise if the bread itself has enough conviction.
This book reminds me that bread has no fixed ceiling.
The basics must be strong.
The technique must be precise.
But after that, there is still room to challenge, to refine, and to push flavour further.
這本書有一種不一樣的力量。
它不像有些日本麵包書那樣安靜、內斂。它給我的感覺更直接,也更有企圖心。好像一位麵包師一直在問:如果把風味、口感、層次和技術都認真推到更高的位置,麵包還可以走到哪裡?
TRAIN BLEU 是日本飛驒高山的人氣名店,而這本書收錄了店裡 47 款麵包食譜,內容從外表樸實、口感有嚼勁的長棍麵包與雜糧麵包,到可頌、丹麥麵包、蛋糕與其他創意麵包。
我覺得這本書吸引我的地方,是它的範圍很廣。
有些麵包看起來很簡單,但真正的重點在發酵、咀嚼感和外皮。
有些是層層堆疊的酥皮產品,精準本身就會變成風味。
也有一些更有創意的品項,讓你看到一家麵包店自己的個性。
所以這本書對我來說,不只是一本學配方的書。
它更像是在讓我看見,一間麵包店如何用穩定、細節和標準,慢慢建立自己的名聲。
成瀨正師傅的背景,也讓這本書更有重量。他是 TRAIN BLEU 的經營者兼主廚,出生於岐阜縣高山市,是創業於大正元年的麵包工廠第四代傳人。2005 年,他以日本代表隊隊長身分參加世界盃麵包大賽,並獲得總成績第三名。
這樣的經歷,對我來說很有意思。
一間麵包店可以開在小鎮,卻有世界級的標準。
一個產品可以看起來樸實,但背後的技術可以很深。
一位麵包師不一定要追求很大的聲量,只要麵包本身有足夠的說服力。
這本書提醒我,麵包沒有真正的盡頭。
基礎要穩。
技術要準。
但在這之後,還有很多空間可以挑戰、修正、推進,讓風味走得更遠。
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