全世界都來排隊的鄉下麵包店：星級麵包職人的工作祕方

Tadashi Naruse
成瀨正
Published 2018

This book is not really about recipes.

It is about the work behind a bakery.

After reading Tadashi Naruse’s recipe book from TRAIN BLEU, this book feels like entering another layer of his world. Instead of only showing the breads, it speaks about the thinking, discipline, setbacks, staff, hometown, and daily decisions behind a bakery that people travel to visit.

TRAIN BLEU is located in Hida Takayama, far from the centre of Tokyo or Osaka. That alone makes this book meaningful to me. It shows that a bakery does not need to be in a big city to hold a high standard. If the bread is strong enough, and the belief behind it is clear enough, people will come.

What stays with me is his way of looking at work.

There is no such thing as “simple work.”
The baker has to observe carefully.
The routine must not become careless.
The bakery must continue improving, even after people already recognise it.

Naruse’s journey also carries weight. He came from a long-established bread-making family in Takayama, later opened TRAIN BLEU, represented Japan at the Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie in 2005, and later guided the Japanese team as supervisor in 2012.

But what I find most important is not only the competition record.

It is the attitude behind it.

This book reminds me that a bakery is built by bread, but also by people, habits, responsibility, and the willingness to keep going through difficult periods.

For me, it belongs in my library because it speaks to the life of a baker beyond the bench.

Not only how to make bread.

But how to keep becoming someone worthy of making it.

這本書其實不是一本真正意義上的配方書。

它談的是一間麵包店背後的工作。

讀過成瀨正師傅 TRAIN BLEU 的配方書之後，再看這本書，感覺像是進入了另一個層次。它不只是讓你看見麵包，而是讓你看到一家麵包店背後的思考、要求、挫折、員工、故鄉，以及每天累積下來的判斷。

TRAIN BLEU 開在飛驒高山，不是在東京，也不是大阪。這一點對我來說很有意思。它讓我看到，一間麵包店不一定要開在大城市，才可以擁有很高的標準。只要麵包本身夠有力量，背後的信念夠清楚，人自然會願意走過來。

這本書讓我記得的，是成瀨師傅看待工作的方式。

沒有一件工作是「只是簡單的工作」。
麵包師必須仔細觀察。
每天重複的事情，也不能因為熟悉而變得隨便。
即使已經被很多人認可，麵包店還是要繼續進步。

成瀨師傅的經歷也讓這本書更有重量。他來自高山一個歷史悠久的麵包製造家庭，後來開設 TRAIN BLEU。2005 年，他代表日本參加世界盃麵包大賽，並獲得總成績第三名；2012 年，他也以監督身份帶領日本團隊參賽並獲得優勝。

但對我來說，最重要的不只是比賽成績。

而是成績背後的態度。

這本書提醒我，一間麵包店是靠麵包建立起來的，但它也同時靠人、習慣、責任感，以及在困難時期仍然願意走下去的力量建立起來。

所以這本書會留在我的 library 裡，因為它談的是工作台以外的麵包師人生。

不只是怎樣把麵包做好。

也是怎樣讓自己，慢慢成為配得上做好麵包的人。