日本人氣麵包店天然酵母的美味麵包物語：公開名店名師的配方、做法、整型、烤焙...等麵包絕技

Tamaki Jun
玉木潤
Published 2009

I keep this book in my library not only for its recipes, but for the way it shows a baker thinking through bread.

Although the title speaks about natural yeast, the book opens into something much wider. It records the bread world of Jun Tamaki — from French-style breads such as baguette, pain rustique, pain de campagne and rye bread, to viennoiserie such as brioche, kouglof, croissant and kouign-amann.

What makes this book valuable to me is its sense of progression.

It begins with basic doughs, then shows how those doughs can be extended into many different products. A baguette dough is not only a baguette. A country bread dough does not belong to only one shape. With different ingredients, fillings, shaping methods and baking approaches, the same foundation can take on many expressions.

That way of thinking has stayed with me.

A baker should not only collect recipes. We need to understand how a dough behaves, how far it can be taken, and how small changes in fermentation, flour, shaping or filling can alter the final bread.

The book also includes notes on levain, fillings, flour, and how to judge French bread. I find those sections especially important because they move beyond appearance. Bread is not only about making something that looks correct. It is about learning how to recognise quality.

To me, this book is a record of Japanese boulangerie thinking: precise, practical, creative, and still very close to the hands of the baker.

It reminds me that one good basic dough can become many things, as long as the baker keeps observing.

我把這本書留在書架上，不只是因為裡面的配方。

對我來說，它更像是在呈現一位麵包師如何透過麵包思考。

雖然書名提到天然酵母，但這本書的內容其實比天然酵母更寬。它記錄的是玉木潤師傅的麵包世界——從 baguette、pain rustique、pain de campagne、黑麥麵包等法式麵包，到 brioche、kouglof、croissant、kouign-amann 等維也納甜麵包。

這本書對我有價值的地方，是它有一種清楚的延伸方式。

它從基礎麵團開始，再慢慢發展出不同的變化。Baguette 的麵團不只是 baguette。鄉村麵包的麵團，也不只屬於某一種形狀。當食材、餡料、整形方式和烘烤方式改變，同一個基礎麵團也可以有很多不同的表現。

這樣的思考方式，一直留在我心裡。

麵包師不應該只是收集配方。我們更需要理解一個麵團的性格，它可以被帶到哪裡，發酵、麵粉、整形、餡料這些細微的變化，又會如何改變最後的麵包。

書裡也有關於 levain、餡料、麵粉，以及如何判斷法式麵包的內容。這些部分對我來說特別有意義，因為它不只是停留在外形。麵包不是做出一個看起來正確的成品而已，更重要的是學會辨認品質。

對我來說，這本書像是一份日本 boulangerie 思考方式的紀錄：精準、實用、有創意，同時又非常貼近麵包師的雙手。

它提醒我，只要麵包師持續觀察，一個好的基礎麵團，其實可以變成很多東西。