長時間發酵的理想麵包：pain stock人氣排隊麵包店的營業配方

Tetsuo Hirayama
平山哲生
Published 2022

Some books teach recipes. This one teaches judgement.

Pain Stock shows the quiet discipline behind Chef Tetsuo Hirayama’s bread — high hydration, low-temperature fermentation, liquid levain, starch behaviour, pH, folding, final proofing, scoring, and baking. The book begins with Pain Stock’s philosophy of making bread properly, without shortcuts, then shows how that philosophy is carried through every stage of production.

What I find valuable is the way it connects technical thinking with the reality of a working bakery. It moves from Pain Stock’s signature pain au levain to French bread, hand-mixed rustic breads, pain de mie, Danish pastry, and the bakery’s all-star products, including the well-known mentaiko French bread.

For me, this is not only a book about long fermentation. It is a book about how to observe dough, protect moisture, build flavour slowly, and understand that deliciousness is never accidental.

Every bread has its own highest point. The baker’s work is to keep searching for it — through repetition, patience, and the humility to admit that bread can never be fully controlled.

有些書教配方。這一本，教的是判斷。

《長時間發酵的理想麵包》整理了平山哲生師傅在 Pain Stock 背後的麵包技術與思考——高含水量、低溫發酵、魯邦液種、澱粉、pH 值、排氣翻麵、最終發酵、割紋與烘烤。書一開始談的是 Pain Stock「不偷工減料地踏實製作」的理念，然後再把這份理念落實到每一個製作步驟裡。

我覺得珍貴的地方，是它把技術思考和一家營業麵包店的日常連接在一起。從招牌 pain au levain，到法國麵包、手揉不整形麵包、吐司、丹麥麵包，再到店裡的全明星商品，包括代表性的明太子法國麵包。

對我來說，這不只是一本關於長時間發酵的書。它談的是如何觀察麵團、保留水分、慢慢建立風味，也提醒我，美味從來不是偶然發生的。

每一種麵包都有屬於自己的美味極致。麵包師的工作，就是透過重複、耐心，以及承認自己仍未完全理解麵包的謙卑，不斷去尋找那個位置。