Pain des Philosophes パン デ フィロゾフ 榎本 哲がつくる食事パン

Tetsu Enomoto
榎本哲
Published 2024

This book feels very close to the way I like to think about bread.

It is not only asking, “What is the recipe?”
It is asking, “What kind of flavour and texture do I want to create — and what should I do to reach it?”

That question is important to me.

In breadmaking, technique should not exist by itself. Fermentation, hydration, yudane, levain, flour choice, mixing, baking — all these decisions should serve the final eating experience. A baker should not use a method just because it looks interesting. The method has to answer the bread.

Pain des Philosophes is known for a very thoughtful approach to meal breads. Through Akira Enomoto’s work, this book shows bread as something that belongs on the table, beside food, wine, cheese, butter, or a simple daily meal.

What interests me is the way he combines techniques that are not always placed together. The Alpha Baguette, for example, brings yudane into a baguette to create more sweetness and a mochi-like texture. It is not innovation for decoration. It is innovation with a clear reason.

That way of thinking stays with me.

A bread can look simple, but the thinking behind it can be very deep. If the baker understands the final taste clearly, then every step has meaning.

For me, this book belongs in my library because it reminds me to begin from eating.

Not from technique first.

But from the bread I want people to feel, chew, remember, and return to.

這本書很接近我喜歡思考麵包的方式。

它問的不是單純一句：「配方是什麼？」
而是：「我想做出什麼樣的風味和口感？那我應該用什麼方法去達到它？」

這個問題，對我很重要。

在麵包裡，技術不應該只是單獨存在。發酵、含水、湯種、魯邦、麵粉選擇、攪拌、烘烤——這些決定都應該服務於最後吃起來的感受。麵包師不應該只是因為一個方法看起來特別，就去使用它。方法必須回答麵包本身的需要。

Pain des Philosophes 是東京神樂坂很受關注的麵包店，而榎本哲師傅的作品，讓我看到食事麵包可以如何真正回到餐桌上。它不是只為了單獨被欣賞，而是可以和料理、酒、起司、奶油，或者一餐簡單的日常飲食一起存在。

我感興趣的，是他把一些原本不一定會放在一起的技術重新組合。像 Alpha Baguette，把湯種的概念帶入法國長棍裡，讓麵包有更多甜味，也帶出更有彈性的口感。這不是為了裝飾而創新，而是有理由的創新。

這樣的思考方式會留在我心裡。

一個麵包可以看起來很簡單，但背後的思考可以很深。只要麵包師很清楚自己想要的味道，每一個步驟就都有意義。

所以這本書會留在我的 library 裡，因為它提醒我，要從「吃」開始思考麵包。

不是先從技術開始。

而是從我希望人們如何感受、咀嚼、記得，甚至願意再回來吃這個麵包開始。